Usedom: Things to Do for Your Baltic Sea Vacation

Even the journey to Usedom by train from Berlin is a lesson in the art of “slow travel.” There is no ICE, not even an IC, just a regional train that chugs slowly through the landscape of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. Passing by reeds and rushes, blue lakes, rapeseed fields, and horse paddocks, you’ll quickly leave the hustle and bustle of Berlin behind and reach the island after about three and a half hours of leisurely travel from the capital. And so begins our Usedom travel report.

The train from Berlin (with a transfer) takes you straight to Seebad Heringsdorf, one of the most popular tourist destinations on Usedom. Usedom has three so-called imperial spas: Bansin, Heringsdorf, and Ahlbeck.

Usedom Travel Report – Imperial Spas and More

They are called that because Emperor Wilhelm at the time invested heavily in the development of these coastal towns. Today, they are the most popular places on Usedom and attract crowds of tourists, especially in summer. They are among the top Usedom things to do. No wonder: the white sandy beaches are wonderfully wide and long, so even during school holidays, there’s still plenty of room to spread out.

Fun fact: Our friends at the DWD (German Weather Service) have found that Usedom has, on average, the most sunshine hours per year in all of Germany. A fact that truly surprised me!

Accommodation in Usedom – Our Hotel Tip

The Ostseehotel Villen im Park is quietly located in the middle of a large park in Seebad Bansin, just about a 10-minute walk from the fine sandy beach. The spacious complex consists of a main building and several villas. The bright rooms are modern and comfortably furnished, with everything you need, and some include a balcony or terrace. In addition, there are two restaurants, a bar, a spa area with indoor and outdoor pools, a sauna, and other wellness offerings. With the train station within walking distance and the promenade just a few minutes away, the location is ideal for relaxing beach days or island excursions.

If you’d prefer to stay right by the beach or are looking for accommodations in other areas of Usedom, you’ll find more hotels and vacation rentals in this overview.

How to Get to Usedom – Train or Car?

Once you arrive in Heringsdorf, you can easily reach everything on foot from the train station. Vacation rentals, hotels, guesthouses, supermarkets, restaurants, and the beach – all of this is just about a 10-minute walk from the station. However, you’ll notice that most travelers still come by car to stay more mobile on the island. Some do take the train but bring their own bicycles.

Accommodation in Usedom – Hotel or Vacation Rental?

Most families with children stay in vacation rentals. The hotels in Usedom aren’t exactly cheap, and especially in the summer season, prices can get quite steep. A vacation rental gives you the flexibility you need, and even during peak season, you can often find rentals in the “second row” – not directly on the beach – still available on short notice. Many vacation rentals are located in beautiful historic villas.

Bathtub for Berliners

What to do on Usedom? What are the top activities in Usedom? In summer, the answer (at least for me) is pretty obvious: beach, baby, beach! However, if you’re used to the mild, often bathtub-warm sea temperatures of Asia, you might be shocked: even in midsummer, the water in the Baltic Sea is very… refreshing! Even in August, it doesn’t get warmer than 17 degrees Celsius.

But Heringsdorf (and really all the imperial spas) has a very gently sloping beach that is great for children. You can rent a beach chair for 10 euros/day, drink a Lübzer (that’s the local beer), and soak up the sun. There’s even a screen over the water now – a kind of open-air cinema where you can relax in a bean bag and watch a movie in the evening. Some visitors say that the ads running during the day disturb the relaxed beach vibe.

Pier Selfies

Each of the three imperial spas has a pier. For landlubbers: that’s a long walkway that stretches far out into the water. It’s perfect for a relaxing stroll and watching the sunset.

Sometimes boat tours also depart from the piers, meaning you can hop on a ship for a scenic cruise or even travel to Poland. Many ships allow you to bring your bike, so you can take the boat one way and cycle back. Definitely something we didn’t want to leave out of our Usedom travel report.

Spring, Fall, and Winter

Even during what’s called the off-season, visitors still flock to the island. In fall, the light is especially beautiful, and you won’t have to zigzag around all the beach tents during your seaside walks. As always, prices are also significantly lower in the off-season. But swimming is really only for the truly hardcore then!

Biking is always an option, and the island — naturally very flat — is perfect for exploring on two wheels. Most hotels offer very detailed info on cycling paths and also have bikes for rent. If you’re into spotting a wide variety of birds, a visit during the quieter months like October would definitely be better.

Fish Sandwiches – every day, all day!

German cuisine isn’t exactly known for its sophistication abroad, but the fish sandwich (“Fischbrötchen” in German) convinces with its simplicity. A bread roll with fish. Sometimes a lettuce leaf. The great debate is about the sauce: does it even need one? And if so: honey mustard or mayo? Pickle and tomato? Butter? No matter if you’re a fish sandwich purist or a more adventurous connoisseur, the beauty of the fish sandwich is that you can literally eat it at any time of the day: it works perfectly for breakfast, lunch, and dinner!

During our one-week trip for this Usedom travel report, we tried all kinds of fish sandwich stands. My favorite is Uwe’s Fischerhütte in Seebad Ahlbeck, just a relaxing walk away from Heringsdorf. You should also definitely try the smoked fish from the Harder family in Bansin, which is incredibly delicious. That’s why eating fish sandwiches is one of our top Usedom tips.

The Dark Side of Usedom

Unfortunately, not everyone feels welcome in Usedom. If you are a person of color, I can’t in good conscience recommend traveling to the island. As an international couple, we unfortunately experienced more than one racist encounter. The natural acceptance of people who seem “different,” which is quite common in other regions of Germany, is noticeably lacking in Usedom. People of color are not only often stared at but also subjected to racist remarks.

Many locals feel left behind: the structurally weak region suffers from job losses, reduced working hours, and closures. Behind the luxury hotels and villas on the beach, industrial sites lie abandoned, and hospitals are closing down. This frustration becomes visible in elections: in the 2016 federal election, one out of three votes went to the AFD – one of the party’s best results across Germany. If Usedom wants to be an attractive island for everyone and appeal to international visitors, it clearly needs to get this problem under control!

About the Author

If she’s not doing yoga or racing around Indonesia on a motorcycle, Lisa will be found close to a turquoise beach, preferably a glass of red wine in her hand and sand between her toes. Having lived in Southeast Asia for more than 4 years, she’s fallen deeply for this part of the world – if only there was more ‘real’ Pizza around! You can follow her travels and hunt for Pizza on Instagram: @lisa_asia

Usedom Things to Do: Tours and Tickets

Prefer exploring with a knowledgeable local guide? Then we recommend joining a guided tour with someone who truly knows their stuff. It’s a whole new way to discover Usedom. On GetYourGuide, you’ll find lots of exciting tours to match our Usedom tips.

Have you ever been to Usedom and spent a vacation on the Baltic Sea? Do you like our Usedom travel report and do you know about more Usedom things to do?