Esperance - Great Ocean Drive

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The coast of Western Australia is truly impressive, and we especially enjoyed it in Esperance. White sandy beaches, cliffs and magnificent views are something you shouldn’t miss. The best way to explore this is via the Esperance Great Ocean Drive, which is also signposted as Tourist Drive 358. Over 40 kilometers, it takes you from the Pink Lake along the coast almost to the center of Esperance.

A Road Trip Along the Esperance Great Ocean Drive

We drove the coastal road of the Great Ocean Drive two days in a row. Since the weather wasn’t so good on the second day, we experienced the beaches partly in bad weather. Nevertheless, we have to say that even then, the water still glowed very turquoise. Esperance and its beaches are definitely among the most beautiful we have visited in Western Australia. In this article, we show which stops are really worth it.

How to get Esperance

There are several ways you can approach getting to Esperance. The fastest but also the most expensive option is by plane. About 20 kilometers outside lies the small Esperance airport, which is served daily by REX Airlines (Regional Express) from Perth. The flight takes about 90 minutes but is quite expensive at around 200-300 AUD. You can find exact prices and times at Skyscanner.

Another option would be the bus from Perth. TransWA offers a daily bus service from East Perth to Esperance. The bus departs at 8:00 am and arrives in Esperance around 6:00 PM. So it takes a good 10 hours because there are many stops along the way. You can also find another bus service from Kalgoorlie to Esperance.

The last option would be to travel on your own with a car or camper. We arrived with a rental car from Perth and made stops along the way for a few nights in Busselton and Albany. Otherwise, according to Google Maps, the pure driving time would be 7 hours and 30 minutes. But with a road trip, you can stretch this and discover many other things in Western Australia.

Accommodation in Esperance – Our Hotel Tip

The Jetty Resort is located practically directly opposite the beach and the promenade of Esperance. An excellent location in the center of the small town. The resort has several room categories, from simple rooms to apartments, some with a kitchen and whirlpool bathtub, to affordable options in the older brick building. However, all are equipped with air conditioning, TV, and free Wi-Fi.

Other amenities include a swimming pool, a children’s playground, and free parking directly at the accommodation. Nearby, you will find many restaurants, bars, or shopping opportunities for self-catering. A good choice in Esperance for couples, families, or solo travelers.

If you are looking for more accommodations in Esperance or holiday parks where you can, for example, stay with a camper, then check out this overview. The Esperance Bay Holiday Park is very popular for that.

1. West Beach

Only about 3 kilometers from the center of Esperance lies the popular West Beach. If you’re coming from the city, it’s basically the first stop along the Esperance Great Ocean Drive. It has several beach access points and a path above the beach for walking. You can reach West Beach itself via stairs.

Off the coast are swimming lagoons that are separated from the rest of the sea by a reef. In the west, you can sometimes find good surf breaks if you’re interested in surfing. Otherwise, be careful when swimming; the currents can be stronger at this beach, especially when the sea is very rough. That was the case during our visit.

Above the beach, even a bit higher than the walking path, there are parking bays for your car, toilets, and showers, all provided for free. So nothing stands in the way of a stop on a road trip along the Esperance Great Ocean Drive.

2. Chapmans Point

Chapmans Point is directly adjacent to West Beach (see point 1) to the west. Locals gather there when the wave forecasts are good and surf together. However, it’s only for experienced surfers and not for beginners. Surfing works best here with winds from the northwest or northeast, as well as southwest and southern swells. However, there is a sharp reef off the coast that creates a powerful point break but makes it quite dangerous. Nevertheless, you can simply watch the surfers for a while.

3. Blue Haven

The next stop on the Esperance Great Ocean Drive is not far away. Blue Haven, and the name says it all, even in cloudy weather. There are two parking lots, one above with a walking path and one a bit further down with stairs to the beach.

This is one of the best places for swimming because the bay is somewhat sheltered and there are no strong currents. The turquoise water is definitely inviting. The waves here are also not so turbulent and strong. This beach is also popular with locals for walking their dogs, as they are allowed on this stretch of beach.

4. Salmon Beach

At the second exit to Blue Haven (see previous point), you will also find Salmon Beach. However, everything here is a bit rockier and not so suitable for swimming. The waves partially crash into the bay and churn up the water quite a bit. The turquoise color of the ocean still looks fantastic, but the rocky bottom and constant currents should discourage you from swimming. Instead, visit Blue Haven or Twilight Beach (see next point).

5. Twilight Beach

The area around Esperance offers some of the most beautiful beaches in Australia. Twilight Beach is at least among the top 3 in Esperance. It is not only beautiful but also one of the most popular beaches for swimming and for families with children. The water is very shallow at the beginning, so even the little ones can have fun bathing here.

The bay of Twilight Beach is very sheltered by the offshore granite rocks, which also make great photo subjects with the brilliantly turquoise water, like the Hole in the Rock. Sand on this beach is fine and white. As you can see in the photos, sometimes, at certain times of the year like winter/spring, some algae is washed ashore. But that doesn’t detract from the beauty. For us, the most beautiful beach on the Esperance Great Ocean Drive.

6. Picnic Cove

It is listed on Google Maps as Lovers Cove, but there are signs here for Picnic Cove. To make it even more confusing, this place is sometimes also referred to as Dolphin Cove. This is the bay directly opposite Twilight Beach and is even accessible via the same parking lot.

The beach itself is not quite as beautiful as Twilight Beach, which is why you meet fewer visitors here. It is only separated from Twilight Beach by a large granite rock. Overall, the beach of Picnic Cove is 2.8 kilometers long and eventually meets the Observatory Beach (see next point). There is no real boundary. However, the waves can become stronger here, and for swimming, you should rather use the calmer waters of Twilight Beach.

7. Observatory Beach

Directly at the Observatory Point (see next point) is also Observatory Beach, which you can reach via stairs from the parking lot on site. As you read in the previous point, it borders the Picnic Cove. Here, you will usually find very few people on the beach because most come for the view.

Observatory Beach is especially popular with surfers and kite surfers. There are often fantastic waves and winds since the bay is quite open. Although it’s less suitable for swimming, it’s perfect for beautiful photos or a walk on the beach. By the way, Observatory Beach or Observatory Point is also recommended by many visitors and locals for a beautiful sunset.

8. Observatory Point

You reach Observatory Point via the same parking lot as the previous beach. However, there are a few steps ahead, as the viewpoint is built on a hill. But it’s worth it. The view is truly fantastic. To the right, the vast sea; to the left, Observatory Beach, the Esperance Great Ocean Drive, and the beautiful coastline.

At the viewpoint, there is a small monument to the explorers who sought shelter from a storm here in 1792. Additionally, Observatory Point is popular for spotting whales off the coast. They migrate through the ocean between June and October. Unfortunately, we didn’t spot any on-site. Still, it’s well worth a visit.

9. Nine Mile Lagoon

The next stop along the Esperance Great Ocean Drive is Nine Mile Lagoon. Here you’ll also find a parking area, though it’s not paved. If you take the stairs down, you’ll end up at a very rocky section that’s not really attractive. A bit further to the left is the lagoon, and behind it the Nine Mile Beach. In our opinion, it’s not necessarily worth a visit. The last two stops are much nicer.

10. Ten Mile Lagoon

The natural pool of Ten Mile Lagoon is especially popular with families on weekends. Animals are also allowed on the beach here. The rocky shore acts as a natural breakwater, creating a long natural swimming pool that’s even warmer than the rest of the sea. On a nice day, you’ll see fishermen casting from the reef, surfers, or people trying paddleboarding.

Note: By the way, about 200 meters further along the beach, there’s a section for nudists. So if you’re looking for that, this is the only beach in Esperance where it’s allowed.

11. Eleven Mile Beach

For us, one of the highlights on the Esperance Great Ocean Drive is Eleven Mile Beach. Here, too, there’s a natural swimming pool, and both sides of the bay are protected by rocks. The scenery alone is breathtaking. As with many beaches, you have to take the stairs down, but it’s worth it. White sandy beach, turquoise sea, and rugged rocks. Esperance has some of the most beautiful coastlines in the southern part of Western Australia.

From here, you can, for example, drive directly onto the beach with a 4×4 off-road jeep towards Thirteen Mile Beach, which you can only reach via the beach. Otherwise, there is no direct access.

12. Great Ocean Walk Trail

Spanning a total length of 17 kilometers, the Great Ocean Walk Trail leads from the Tanker Jetty in Esperance along the promenade and then the coast on the Great Ocean Drive up to Twilight Beach (see point 5). From there, the Great Ocean Walk Trail leads inland through native bushland to the Pink Lake.

Note: Don’t be confused; the Pink Lake is just named that. If you’re looking for a pink-colored lake, check out Lake Hillier. It’s not too far from Esperance on Middle Island in the Cape Arid National Park.

From Pink Lake, the Great Ocean Walk Trail leads back to Esperance. So you can walk a complete loop of 17 kilometers with various sections. This is a great alternative for nature lovers and anyone who enjoys being outdoors to explore the area. For more information and a map, visit TrailsWA.

Esperance: Tours and Tickets

Do you prefer to travel with a guide who knows the area very well? Then we recommend a guided tour with a local. This way you can get to know Esperance in a completely different way. GetYourGuide offers a wide selection of exciting tours for Esperance.

Have you ever driven the Esperance Great Ocean Drive? Would this be a destination on a trip through Western Australia? Feel free to leave us a comment.